The Italian Antonini brand has an almost century-long history that dates back to 1919, when the family gemstone shop opened in Milan. The brand’s rise to international recognition began when it was headed by brothers Sergio and Carlo Giulio Antonini.
Made of the finest materials, elegant, subtle and pure, jewellery by Antonini became a favourite not only in Europe, but also in Asia and the USA. The fans of these jewellery creations include Italian Princess Alexandra Borghese, movie stars Uma Thurman and Melanie Griffith, pop diva Jennifer Lopez and top model Naomi Campbell. Our interview with Sergio Antonini will tell you about creating star jewellery for the stars of show business.
- Sergio, how did you come up with the idea to give your collections place-names (Alaska, Brazil, Australia, Barcelona)?
- Firstly, it’s important to identify the collections, and place-names are quite appropriate here. We’ve developed this concept together with our colleagues from the company. The thing is that jewellery is not only design or fashion, it’s a dream. People buy jewellery not because it’s a necessity, but for personal aesthetic pleasure. That’s why it’s essential to associate a beautiful item with a no less beautiful name. Some names were inspired by the beauty that surrounds us: for instance, the island of Mauritius. The collection dedicated to Mauritius is very smooth, sunny and bright. Another one – Alaska – is very different. It is based on purity, cold and glitter, and ice-like diamonds. Jewellery from the Australia collection is inspired by the continent’s original city architecture, e.g. that of Sydney. This is designer jewellery that features a lot of purple. Of course I’m inspired by my travels. For instance, I was totally captured by Barcelonian architecture. Especially by Gaudi’s works. The Barcelona collection reveals this world that amazed me.
- Have you been to Alaska?
- No. But I’ve been to Siberia. I think it would be the name for my next collection. I liked the place so much: its natural world and energy are amazing. I spent three days there, and these were unforgettable. Siberia surprised me so much. Usually people go to Moscow and Saint Petersburg, but this time I’ve been to Cheboksary, Tumen, Samara and Novosibirsk. To get a feeling of Russia you should really go there and I’m happy to have done that.
To get a deeper understanding of the country I always go to museums and learn about culture. I’m delighted by these discoveries and historical peculiarities. For instance, in Moscow I was impressed by Petrovka and its buildings, as well as by the Petrovsky Passage.
- What is the difference between the collections that you make for Europe and for Russia (or China, Japan and the USA)?
- When you develop a 100% successful concept you can be sure it will suit any mentality. For instance, Alaska is totally loved by Americans, because they like dangling earrings in the ears and pendants on their necks. They like everything over-the-top and oversized. On the contrary, in Japan people like smaller jewellery and put quality first. The Japanese have a knowledge of precious stones and are perfect jewellery experts. Russians and Europeans have similar tastes. They know much about quality and style and like the balance of these two elements. As for China, it arouses mixed feelings. It’s our biggest market, but brand owners are not fond of the Chinese ability to copy ideas. I’d like to say that first we develop a general concept and then concentrate on choosing jewellery for each particular country.
– What is the main principle of your work?
- When you work with gemstones and jewellery the main thing is to treat the material and stones seriously. This idea can be represented by words: natural – precious – having an individual style. The most important thing is that when people see the "made in Milan" inscription they have no reservations about quality and the item’s unique design.
One of my favourite gemstones is blue sapphire. I think it’s a very fine and soothing colour. My jewellery is more architectonic. Other jewellers make more decorative items and emphasize patterns but my designs are geometric, with perfectly clear lines. Simple and clean shapes, fine materials and elegance – I can associate with that.
– Who’s the most demanding client of your jewellery house?
– Some celebrities really require much. But to me it’s not relevant who the clients of the Antonini boutique are.
- Are the children going to continue your family business? Tell us more about them.
– I have a daughter, Anna-Maria, but she’s very small. She’s a schoolgirl studying at the German school in Milan. Why German? Because almost everyone speaks English, and as for French, it’s very similar to our native Italian. This leaves German, the language of our European neighbors. I’ve been thinking about Russian or Chinese schools too, but unfortunately Milan has very few of those.
– What do you do with your free time?
– I’m very fond of skiing. And I’m totally happy when I manage to do that. Milan is a two-hour drive from St. Moritz Alps – we’re really lucky. Me and my daughter often go there. Actually, Milan has a fine location in spite of the fog and weather that is not always good. A two-hour drive south brings you to the Ligurian Sea; the north, as I’ve just said, has mountains. Is there anything better than a holiday close to nature?
Natalia Andrianova
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