Polynesian legends say that pearls are dew drops that have fallen from the night skies in full moon. По легендам Полинезии, жемчуг - это капля росы, упавшая с ночного неба с полной луной. The mighty of this world were enchanted by the magic magnetism of pearls: Semiramis, who liked pink pearls, the pearl collector Cleopatra, Ivan the Terrible who always carried his pearl-encrusted staff with him, and Queen Elizabeth II, who adorned with pearls not only herself but also her Italian greyhound.
The Russian word "zhemchug" (pearls) comes from the Chinese and Tatar language. In old Russian it sounded like "zen’chug". This is explained by the fact that China had been the world exporter of pearls from of old. Pearls that have a wide colour palette of 120 hues had always been a favourite jewellers’ material, but their fishing had always been an effort- and labour-consuming job. That’s why the Chinese first tried to grow cultured pearls already in the Middle Ages. Especially popular were the pearls with a Buddha-shaped core that were often used as money. The method for getting such shape was simple: a smallish gold sculpture was placed inside a mollusk shell, and several years later it was covered with a pearl shell.
This popular method is widely used by the Japanese, today’s biggest producers of cultured pearls. In particular Mikimoto Kokichi had created a whole industry of pearl growing. The growing process looks like this: one of the shells gets a strip of living tissue cut from its pallium. A small mother-of-pearl ball is placed inside the tissue and then implanted through a cut into another mollusk’s flesh. The wound heals, which leads to formation of a new pearl. Under favourable conditions a quarter of the mollusks that have undergone surgery produce pearls; 1/20 of them produce mother-of-pearl. The implanted core is sprayed with antibiotics for more successful healing. It’s a lengthy process that takes several years.
At Lake Biwa in Honshu, also in Japan, they’ve gone even further and now grow coreless pearls. To do that the pallium of each mollusk gets 10-20 cuts. Pieces of pallium tissue from another mollusk are then implanted into these cuts. The same method took root in Australia, at Kuri Bay in Brecknock Harbour, and in Queensland, close to Cape York. Growing cultured pearls is connected first of all with their popularity with jewellers. The producers get beautiful pearls with a number of preset qualities, while natural pearls are shaped as nature wanted them to be. It’s not always a perfect shape, and they cost more.
This season pearls are once again one of the main trends. A new collection of women’s watches by Bovet combines diamonds and pearls. Fleurier Pearl Watch blindingly sparkles with diamonds with an overall weigh of 4.29 carats. The crown, clock winder and folding fastening are all covered with classic-cut stones, as well as the small screws that fasten the body to the wrist bracelet covered with 110 pearls. Each figure on the mother-of-pearl dial is also adorned with diamonds. One should note that watches by Bovet and pearls have gone together long since: in the century before last watchmakers of this brand delivered watches decorated with first-class pearls, to the Chinese Royal Court.
The French Tahizea brand gives tribute to Polynesia, the birthplace of many a beautiful pearl. Jewellery by this brand uses black pearls from Tahiti that are very rare. Encased in gold in the classic jewellery style, they become a true masterpiece. The new collection features marine theme and the popular bio conceptualism.
Another French brand Misaki mixes elegance and innovation. The company works with cultured pearls grown using a unique patented SHL technology (Super High Lustre) that helps to produce extra shimmering X-treme Lustre pearls. At the heart of these pearls lies a core of natural quartz, covered with rainbow-coloured mother-of-pearl. X-treme Lustre pearls shimmer much brighter that natral ones. Misaki Snake cuff watch features pearl cufflinks; the same style is used with a wristband from genuine leather with pearls – a homage to all fans of rock. The romantic Mirage necklace and Amazone set of necklace and earrings produce quite a different impression. It’s true haute joaillerie – jewellery classics.
The Italian jewellery house Utopia created a collection called Swing. The name speaks for itself: these are pendants decorated with coloured pearls. The unusual hue and perfect shape of large oblong pearls create a feeling of lightness. Tenderness and purity of pearls are emphasized with white gold, diamonds and gemstones.
The famous Swiss jewellery house Adler used a Chinese wisdom as an inspiration for its pearl collection. It is believed that a pearl from the South Sea is a piece of the Moon. Classic design and luxury of baroque Byzantine style, white gold and diamond sparkle are a setting for large pearls, each of them 11-16 mm in diameter.
During the times of the Roman Empire pearls were thought to be a symbol of power and wisdom. The Indians used them as a talisman, in Europe pearls were put in wine for an honourable guest to demonstrate the purity of intentions. As for the healing qualities of this mineral, they’ve been known from time immemorial. And even today the tenderness, lightness and sparseness of pearls are highly appreciated by aficionados of the high jewellery art.
The Pearl of Allah (or the Pearl of Lau-Tsu) was found in the South China Sea on May 7, 1934. The mollusk weighed around 300 kg, the pearl itself – 6.35 kg. 24x14 cm in size, it reminded a turbaned head. Unfortunately, the pearl isn’t covered with mother-of-pearl which makes its value significantly less.
Pavel Talov
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